More Than Time: Inside the Passionate World of Watch Collecting

The Edit:

July 23, 2025

More Than Time: Inside the Passionate World of Watch Collecting

Watch collectors are a rare breed. Their passion can be akin to obsession; their interest often occurs as fanatical. There are countless groups, clubs and WhatsApp chains where likeminded enthusiasts share new finds, source particular pieces and exchange knowledge and information, not to mention any number of Instagram handles, Tik Tok accounts and YouTube channels dedicated to the subject. Whether drawn to timepieces for their technical prowess, their craftsmanship, their historic significance or their ability to make a statement, this subculture adheres to a shared set of rules, mores and values.

A selection of watches at the Matthew Bain booth at the 2025 Original Miami Beach Antique Show. Image courtesy of Lucas Botz Photography.

The most prominent dealers of vintage and pre-owned watches not only cater to these self-identifying devotees, they are also card carrying members of the community. We caught up with four of U.S. Antique Show’s most revered timepiece dealers to get some insight into a world that can feel intimidating to the outsider. Not only did we get a true sense of the motivations behind their genuine passion, we also realized that this world, while it may feel foreign to the uninitiated, has its arms wide open to anyone who shows a genuine interest in the subject. Even better yet, these dealers are here to help.

Tania Edwards, co-founder of Collectability

Tania Edwards, Co-Founder, along with acclaimed Patek Philippe expert, John Reardon, of Collectability, was initially drawn to the trade because an “insider” was kind enough to share his passion with her. She explains, “When I was at college, I was dating a guy whose father was a watchmaker in the U.K. When we were backpacking around Europe one summer, my friend insisted that we visit Patek Philippe in Geneva so that I could learn about the most important watchmaker. Naturally, as a teenager I had never heard of Patek and could not understand why we had to visit, especially as we looked like scruffy students and not people who could buy a watch. However, when we entered the beautiful salon on Rue du Rhone, we were treated with respect, and I was shown the collection.”

She left that day determined to one day own a Patek Philippe. Just a few years later, she went several steps further and began a long-tenured career working for the brand. For Ms. Edwards, who continues to specialize in Patek Philippe, that visit was a seminal moment that cemented an authentic love for fine timepieces.

Alfredo Paramico

Alfredo Paramico is one of the most prominent Italian watch dealers in a region famous for watch collecting. He focuses on sourcing and trading pieces that stand out either for their rarity, their historical importance, or their extraordinary condition. In keeping with Italian tradition, he always had a love of small, well-made objects and had been fascinated with watches since he first saw a watch magazine. Throughout his successful career in banking, he became an avid collector before a watershed moment, in the form of a specific timepiece, set him on a different course.

When asked what prompted his transformation he explains, “For me, it wasn’t a single moment but a gradual process—but if I had to pinpoint something, I’d say it was the first time I held a truly special vintage Patek Philippe in my hands. I remember being struck not just by its beauty, but by the emotion it carried—the craftsmanship, the history, the soul of the watch. It was as if I was holding a piece of time itself. That experience opened my eyes to the idea that watches are far more than objects; they are living witnesses of human ingenuity and taste. From that moment, I knew this was more than a hobby or a business. It became a lifelong passion.”

Adam Golden, owner of Menta Watches

Founder of Menta Watches, Adam Golden, got into the business first and foremost as a collector. He tells us about his “gateway” watch, “While in high school, my dad bought himself his one and only watch: a Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Duo. One day, he let me borrow it, and after that I was completely hooked.”

Equally well-known for his thoughtful curation and his impeccable eye for cool watches, the former attorney and “obsessive” collector first started trading watches so that he could support his habit. He tells us, “After enough time, I realized my passion and wanted to be engaged in the world of watches full time.” Specializing in rare, unique, and excellent vintage watches, from around the 1920s all the way up to the 1990s, Mr. Golden only trades watches that he himself would want in his personal collection. Emphasizing how important it is to buy what you like, he’s not caught up on the status of watch brands but rather, deals with timepieces that he thinks are interesting and unique.

Morgan Cardet, Partner, Matthew Bain

Morgan Cardet, Partner of world-renowned firm Matthew Bain, identified his life path from a young age. “I’ve loved watches since I was kid,” he tells us. “When I was 24 years old, I went to work for Matthew Bain; 16 years later I’m now a partner at the company.” With a focus on vintage watches, primarily Rolex, Cartier, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, the company also buys and sells pre-owned and neo-vintage pieces. In recent years, Mr. Cardet has helped several Authorized Rolex Dealers in curating collections for their Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) program and has become an instrumental resource for those retailers wanting to successfully leverage the potential of the program.

When we asked him what he looks for when purchasing watches for his business, Mr. Cardet notes that “condition above all else” is a primary consideration for him.

A selection of watches at the Matthew Bain booth at the Original Miami Beach Antique Show. Image courtesy of Lucas Botz Photography.

Mr. Golden feels similarly, with a few added caveats, “The key factors are simply, 1) the condition and originality of the piece, 2) the rarity of the production of the watch, and lastly (and arguably the most important), 3) do we actually like the watch?”

An Audemars Piguet shown on Menta’s Instagram with the caption, “One of the best jumbo Royal Oaks of all time? Hard to beat the salmon dial…”

Mr. Paramico agrees that condition is critical when he’s considering a watch purchase, but his approach is also more visceral, “The first thing I look at is authenticity and integrity—has the watch remained true to what it left the factory as? Then I focus on condition, which for me is absolutely key. I have a deep respect for originality, so I’ll always prioritize a watch that has been preserved with care over one that’s been overly polished or tampered with. Rarity is another crucial element, whether it’s a rare reference, a unique dial configuration, or a piece with exceptional provenance. But beyond the technical factors, I also trust my instinct: sometimes a watch just speaks to you—it has that intangible charm that makes it special. My goal is to acquire watches that I would personally be proud to own, and that will bring lasting joy to the next collector.”

A timepiece featured on Mr. Paramico’s instagram with the caption, “This is one of the most beautiful Patek Philippe timepieces ever created.”

Ms. Edwards shares the belief that a timepiece should speak to you. “The simple answer is ‘buy what you love.’ If, when you see a watch, you think ‘this is the most beautiful thing I have seen!’ or ‘I must own this!’ buy it because it moves you, not because you think it will be worth more money one day. Most importantly, buy what you will wear.”

I timepiece posted on the Collectaibility Instagram account with the caption, “The Patek Philippe ref. 2509R was introduced in 1950 as the ultimate water-resistant dress watch of its era.”

In keeping with her commitment to shepherding both new and seasoned collectors through the process of investing in timepieces, Ms. Edwards shares a checklist of factors that go in the “to buy or not to buy” question, which include budget, condition, how and when will the watch be worn and size. She also says, “Work with a trusted seller. When buying a vintage fine timepiece, it is essential that you buy from someone you trust.” Mr. Cardet agrees, saying, “You don’t by the watch, you buy the dealer; find someone you can trust and buy a watch you love.”

Morgan Cardet with Matthew Bain

Mr. Golden reverts to his characteristic “cool is cool” attitude when advising collectors on a purchase, “The best advice we often give to new buyers is to always follow their heart and buy what you like. After that, always make sure you buy the best example on the market that you can find!”

A Rolex with Florentine finish posted on Menta’s Instagram account

Ms. Edwards also puts some of the onus back on the collector, “Buy from a trusted, respected dealer. But in addition, educate yourself so that you know what you are buying. Educate yourself about the brand and have an idea of what to look for when buying a significant timepiece, especially vintage.”

A selection of watches at the Matthew Bain booth during the 2025 Original Miami Beach Antique Show. Image courtesy of Lucas Botz Photography.

Mr. Paramico says his advice is simple, “Focus on rarity and condition. Be patient, and don’t settle. Buy a watch only if it’s exactly what you truly want—not what’s trending, not what someone else tells you to buy. A great timepiece should speak to you, and it should be something you’ll love for years to come. And when you find that special watch, don’t be afraid to stretch a little if it means securing the right example in the right condition. In the long run, quality and rarity always win.

A Rolex Daytona posted to Mr. Paramico’s Threads account with the caption, “A symphony in pink gold.”

Mr. Cardet told us that the best piece of advice he was ever given was to handle as many watches as you can, “There’s no better way to learn about them,” he explains. With all of the watches he’s seen and, undoubtedly, added to his collection, one would assume he’d have a tough time identifying a personal favorite, but he was definitive in his answer to the question, “I love to wear my 18K Yellow Gold 1991 Rolex ‘Zenith’ Daytona.”

Mr. Cardet’s 18k Yellow Gold 1991 Rolex “Zenith” Daytona

Mr. Golden’s favorite watch speaks to the source of his fondness for timepieces, to that watch he first fell in love with, “Even though it does not get as much wrist time as it should, my favorite watch in my collection will always be the Jaeger LeCoultre my dad gave me; I’m a sucker for sentimentality.”

The Jaeger LeCoultre Mr. Golden’s dad gave him

Ms. Edwards also has emotional ties to her personal favorite. While she would always say the watch she’s most recently purchased is her favorite, it was the one that first sparked her interest that remains her most cherished, “Overall, it would have to be my first Patek Philippe watch that I purchased early in my career: a Ref. 4860, a simple, ladies yellow gold Calatrava with a white dial and black Breguet numerals. It was similar to a watch I saw at the Patek Philippe Salon when I visited as a student, and the style remained with me. I recently gave it an ‘update’ by putting the watch on a double-wrap, red leather strap – so chic!”

Ms. Edwards’ “updated” Patek Philippe Ref. 4860, image courtesy of Cobey Arner

Mr. Paramico’s response to the question of a favorite from his personal collection highlights his philosophical perspective and the profound impact timepieces have on him, “That’s a difficult question, but if I had to choose, I’d say my Patek Philippe reference 3974 in platinum. For me, it embodies everything that makes watchmaking an art form—the technical brilliance of the minute repeater and perpetual calendar, the timeless elegance of its design, and the sheer rarity of the piece itself. But beyond the specifications, it’s a watch that resonates with me on a personal level. Every time I hold it, I’m reminded why I fell in love with horology in the first place. It’s not just a watch—it’s a masterpiece, and a companion on this journey.”