In Celebration of Women’s History Month: A Brief History of 3 Icons of Jewelry

The Edit:

March 26, 2024

In Celebration of Women’s History Month: A Brief History of 3 Icons of Jewelry

March is officially recognized as Women’s History Month, and it is a prime opportunity to reflect on the impact women have had throughout history. From abolitionists to scientists, from teachers to doctors, from authors to politicians, women have had a profound effect on the world around us. Being the jewelry obsessives we are, we wanted to take a moment to reflect on a few key women (out of many!) who have meaningfully altered the world of jewelry. Whether by designing jewelry or influencing the way women adorn themselves, Suzanne Belperron, María Félix and Iris Apfel have created seismic shifts in the jewelry landscape.

Screen-Shot-2024-03-20-at-2.56.14-PM-resized

Image courtesy of Pat Saling Collection

Suzanne Belperron Born in 1900, Suzanne Belperron created jewelry that is as revered today as it was in any moment in jewelry history. In an interview we conducted back in May of 2020, notable Suzanne Belperron expert and collector, Pat Saling, said, “Suzanne Belperron was so independent at a time when it was not the norm for women to be independent, especially in a male dominated business. She worked for Renee Boivin for a time, and after he died in 1917, she and Boivin’s widow, Jean, continued running the business; a lot of people don’t realize that women were running that company since it continued to retain his name.”

Screen-Shot-2024-03-20-at-2.51.06-PM-e1710964480294 (1)-resized

Image courtesy of Pat Saling Collection

Screen-Shot-2024-03-20-at-3.00.58-PM-e1710964450159-resized

Image courtesy of Pat Saling Collection

Ms. Belperron didn’t just design fabulous jewelry, she created a movement in the way others approached design. Whether creating gentle curves in brooches so they would meld with the natural curves of a woman, or focusing on earring backs to ensure they were both comfortable and secure, this was officially jewelry made by a woman, for women. She was also considered risqué in her use of colored stones, regularly combining exquisite, gem-quality gemstones with those considered less valuable, such as mixing emerald and jade, if she liked the overall effect of the combination.

Belperron is consistently invoked by contemporary designers who share that she is an ongoing source of inspiration and confidence when selecting gemstone color combinations for their creations. From contemporary doyen of pearls, Assael, to media darling and celebrity go-to brand Harwell Godfrey, Suzann Belperron is admired not only for her design daring, but also for her many personal stories of heroics, including saving friends from the Gestapo.

Screen-Shot-2024-03-20-at-3.02.45-PM-resized-2

Image courtesy of Pat Saling Collection

María Félix: While not a designer herself, Mexican film star María Félix was a vocal jewelry enthusiast who commissioned several celebrated pieces. La Doña, as she was nicknamed, was born in 1914 and she showcased a bold fearlessness throughout her illustrious career, as well as within her storied personal life. Her choice of jewelry was equally adventurous. In addition to wearing classic pieces of jewelry such as a strand of South Sea pearls and matching earrings, the Goddess of Spanish language cinema also commissioned several pieces that paid homage to her heritage, and her penchant for reptiles.

Image courtesy of Michelle Graff, National Jeweler

A long-time client of Cartier, La Doña went to the French maison to commission three pieces throughout her life that are still considered some of the most iconic the brand has ever created. Her giant, flexible snake necklace was covered in black, green and red enamel, a nod to the colors of her native country. She later commissioned a pair of snake earrings covered in turquoise-colored enamel, which were impressive in both scale and construction, and her crocodile necklace was said to have been based on the likeness of a pair of pet, baby crocodiles that she brought with her when commissioning the bespoke creation.

Nils Hermann Cartier Collection, Cartier

Iris Apfel: Born in 1921, Iris Apfel passed away just this year at the age of 102. With a mantra of “More is more, less is a bore,” the self-proclaimed maximalist was perhaps as well known for her acerbic wit as she was her oversized glasses. A businesswoman, fashion designer, interior designer and overall fashion maven, Iris absolutely loved jewelry and accessories. An original mix-master, Iris would pair giant coral colored beads with an armful of hand-woven beaded bangles, or unapologetically combine an authentic squash blossom necklace with huge piles of turquoise beads and a hand full of silver and turquoise rings.

The most captivating thing about Iris was how much fun she seemed to have with fashion. She was on the front lines of all things style-related, especially later in her life, and yet she never appeared to take anything too seriously, thereby democratizing an area that was formerly reserved for the elite. Another one of her well-known phrases was, “If you’re not interested, you’re not interesting” and Iris was interested in so many things. Having had the privilege of meeting Iris a handful of times myself, I can attest to the fact that she loved a bargain, but even more than that, she loved learning about the materials, processes and inspirations that went into a single design and relished knowing everything she could about the people whose hands played a part in its creation.