Prices of gold, platinum and silver are public knowledge, with the current price per ounce of the metals (at press time) $2,343.70, $930.90 and $27.57, respectively. It’s also easy enough to find out the going rate for diamonds and, with a little more digging, fair market prices for colored gemstones and pearls. Yet those numbers only paint part of the picture, as anyone in the trade can attest. The real value of a piece of jewelry can only be considered when looking at the nuanced qualities of the diamonds and stones used, the craftsmanship of a piece, and the beauty of design, to mention nothing of the imagination and creativity that designers and brands invest into their collections.
Pat Saling Collection
This may explain why fine jewelry, when compared to other non-essential items, is relatively expensive, but again, it doesn’t define the entirety of fine jewelry’s worth. While it’s tempting to view fine jewelry as an investment, especially in light of recent analysis speculating that gold may hit $3,000 an ounce in the next six to 18 months, that negates other factors that make fine jewelry, and especially antique, vintage and estate jewelry, a worthwhile purchase. The sentiment inherent in fine jewelry, the emotions it can convey, and the artistic prowess that goes into its creation are often invoked; these considerations are usually the driving force behind a purchase of fine jewelry, all of which are bolstered by the permanence of fine jewelry.
As I write this story on “Earth Day” (Monday, April 22), I’m keenly aware of the impacts our behavior has on the environment. Admittedly, mining for precious metals and gemstones has historically had its fair share of negative effects on our environment and that’s something I’m proud of our industry for trying to rectify. I know we are all in support of the various initiatives intended to minimize the negative affects we have on the natural world, with recycled gold and ethically sourced stones now common practice, but one thing we don’t need to worry about as an industry is our product winding up in landfills. Walk down any city street on “garbage night” and you’ll find enough castaway furniture to fill an entire house, enough discarded clothing to dress a marching band and enough outdated kitchenware and electronics to open one’s own store. One thing you never ever see are bags of gemstones, diamonds and precious metals.
Paul Fisher
Camilla Dietz Bergeron
Recognizing this may make the decision between purchasing a new luxury handbag or a piece of antique, vintage or estate jewelry easier. While both may be appealing in the moment for the joy—and style—they can bring into one’s life, only one was literally created to be passed down for generations. Whether a piece is worn every day or reserved for special occasions, well-crafted and kindly-treated fine jewelry can withstand the test of time. And when purchased from a trusted U.S. Antique Show dealer, the personal stories one infuses into her jewelry is a continuation of a narrative that began in the past
That sweet, platinum and diamond encrusted Tiffany & Co ring that was recovered from the bottom of a ship that was shot down in 1918 is now somebody’s beloved engagement ring. Want to join the ranks of Jackie O, Grace Kelly, Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor? A piece of vintage Marina B jewelry will do the trick. Want to channel your inner goddess? Look no further than vintage Cartier, one of La Doña’s (aka María Félix) favorite maisons. Want to invoke the 1970’s glamor of Studio 54? May we suggest an Elsa Peretti “bone” cuff? And while every piece of antique, vintage and estate jewelry may not contain the same level of drama, from what the popularity of certain styles indicate about a time in history to what the materials used intimate about the state of the world at the time of its creation, all of it has a story to tell now, and well into the future.